Fall Racing Series: Wednesday Night Races begin!

Race #1

We put the word out to get a fall racing series underway.  Often the only way to motivate everyone to get out at the same time is a little healthy competition.  Short-lived though the races are, they are the fodder for years of banter


The race began like most, under the Ben Franklin bridge.  Only two boats, us on The Moon against a friend’s Hunter 37 with a crew of two No Libs boys and Peter’s brother Andy.  After a few near misses, a run in with a tug boat, a slow drift down river the winning boat pulled over the finish line a boat’s length ahead.

More details later when time allows!

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Labor Day Weekend

At the close of the term on Saturday, we began planning some fun for the weekend.

Sunday Sail Upriver

Sailing north of the Delair Railroad Bridge, one sees a side of the Delaware River that is reminiscent of Lake George.  We sailed a few hours and as it neared time to drop the hook, we looked into Dredge Harbor to find a spot next to what we call Heron Island.  This has been a favorite spot since one Easter Sunday a few years ago when we were the sole witnesses to the nesting herons flying back and forth carrying twigs and passing them beak to beak like relay sticks as the mates built their nest together.  Unfortunately Dredge Harbor was already packed with power boats and sailboats who got there first this holiday weekend.  We continued looking for a place to take cover from the wakes of the tankers, tugs and barges that know no holiday.  With waning light, we tucked behind the sandbar that has snagged us one too many times and found a quiet place to watch the sunset and have dinner.

The next morning, it was hazy and humid with the sun filtering through. We sailed back toward Philadelphia past the stately homes lining the river.  This quiet stretch of the Delaware makes me feel transported to another place.  We love to sail past the charming Riverside Yacht Club and look at the many sailboats bobbing in the mooring field or the lasers up on the racks ready to be put in for their chance at Wednesday night races.  The Merit, an old sailboat Peter and his brother Andy owned years ago, is tethered to a mooring ball there and each time we go by, we check to see if it's still there.

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Sailing to Philadelphia

Once under the Tacony-Palmyra Bridge the industrial side of the Delaware River becomes apparent.  Tugs stand by to escort tankers in and out of docks or churn the water as they pass us on their way to the next job, reminding us that this is very much a working river. 

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As we move down the river, closer and closer to Philadelphia, the history of the city blends with the new development of the riverfront. Penn Treaty Park peaks out from behind the old PECO building with its rusting coal car railhead jutting out in the river.  The park pays homage to the legend that William Penn stood here and met with the Leni Lenape to purchase land (not sure of the accuracy of this, but so the story goes).  Nowadays the park serves as space for picnics, running, fishing and of course the Shad Fest every spring.  Just past the trees, the year-old Sugar House casino recalls the sugar industry which once thrived on the river; sugar is a not-so-subtle theme in the casino’s architecture.  The two tall reflective condo buildings built a few years ago mostly serve to get in the way of seeing City Hall (located west of the river by 15 blocks) where the statue of “Billy” Penn is dwarfed by the giants around him:  the Comcast Center, both the Liberty Place towers, the Bell Atlantic building, and the Mellon Center stand out among the older stooped skyscrapers of earlier decades.  Old and new commingle as my own history is written here and added to this city.

Post-Irene

Weather is important—especially when it’s in the North East, it becomes a major media event.  Also the coverage area of our local media includes communities that had good reason to prepare for a hurricane.  In Philadelphia, we were only expecting a Tropical Storm, but multiple forecasts threatened sustained winds of 40-45 knots per hour with gusts up to 60-65.  For peace of mind we prepared for the worst and hoped for the best.

Friday

Although the sun was shining Friday afternoon, our office closed early as a show of support for Mayor Nutter’s preparedness plan.  Knowing all that we had to do, I was happy to take advantage of the extra hours.  Stopping at the market, I stocked up on staples.  The grey clouds had set in by the time I got across the Market Street bridge.  I ran into a marina friend, baby strapped on, and asked what their plans were.  She told me she and the baby would wait out the storm in the safety of a friend’s house while her husband tended to the boat in the storm.
The men in the marina had spent the last few days denying any concern, shoving their hands in their pockets.  “It’s just another storm.”  That they happened to be right in the end is happenstance and little more.
Once home, I began working on the sailboat.  The marina guidelines said “remove all canvas” which matched my Dad’s advice.  He warned that even a slight gap in the roller furling could create windage.  I took off the dodger and bimini which prompted Peter to grumble that he would have just tied them down.  Together we took off the mainsail and headsail and stuffed them into the sailboat.

Saturday

The next morning clouds hung heavy in the sky.  By afternoon the rain began and the wind picked up.  Gusts were now predicted at 55 kph.  Friday evening’s argument was resolved:  if the value of staying was the ability to respond to any problems, then being over-prepared to deal with them quickly and safely was paramount.  We spent the next several hours cleaning up anything that might blow and eventually moved our plants inside. I had an evacuation bag ready, life jackets and a flood light on the boat, extra lines a hand’s reach away. We took stock and decided that everything was replaceable except our laptops and my teaching portfolio which I moved to storage.  We settled in for a night of wind and rain, ready to respond to trouble, fix a broken line or evacuate if needed.

Sunday

Thankfully we only saw sustained 20 kph wind with the highest gust getting up to 37.  We were fine.  The wind and rain continued through morning and we saw sun late that afternoon.  The worst part is the inconvenience of having to hank back on sails so we can get out to enjoy the beautiful weather that always follows a hurricane.

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Irene

All anyone is talking about is Hurricane Irene.

Updates

As of 11:00 a.m. The National Weather Service (NOAA) issued the latest bulletin.  As the Bahamas discontinues their warnings, we on the East Coast, particularly places near the water, are on alert as watches and warnings are extended.  A Hurricane Warning has just been extended northward in the Chesapeake to Drum Point.

Defining the Terminology

According to the NOAA website: 

Hurricane warning

• Hurricane conditions are expected somewhere within the warning area.

• Issued 36 hours before the anticipated first occurrence of tropical-storm-force winds...conditions that make outside preparations difficult or dangerous. Preparations to protect life and property should be rushed to completion.

Tropical storm warning

• Tropical storm conditions are expected somewhere within the warning area within 36 hours.

Hurricane watch

• Hurricane conditions are possible within the watch area.
  
• Issued 48 hours before the anticipated first occurrence of tropical-storm-force winds...conditions that make outside preparations difficult or dangerous.
  

Preparing to Ride out the Storm

The closest I’ve come to a hurricane so far was when I first arrived in Trinidad and Hurricane Ivan brushed by east of Tobago—of course it hit Grenada, Jamaica, Grand Cayman, Cuba and Alabama—but we were lucky to only see high winds and some rain.  Nothing too dramatic.  Peter witnessed Arlene passing right over him as he returned to the US after a year long sailing trip.  These experiences make us a little less nervous than most people, but we still plan to be fully prepared.

After a close eye on the NOAA and Weather Underground websites, the prevailing prediction for Philadelphia is that we will see more of the Tropical Storm conditions considering that the Hurricane is predicted to be downgraded to a Category 1 by the time it reaches the Delmarva Peninsula and we are a good 50 miles inland.

Peter will take all our sails and canvas off and secure everything outside that might be carried away by the winds.  Our emergency readiness is something I maintain on the sailboat at all times:  flashlights, batteries, first aid kit, canned foods.  We probably have enough to bug-out at a moment’s notice and live for three or four weeks!


We’ll prepare for the worst, but hope for the best.  Updates in the next post!

In the meantime…Dark & Stormy anyone? 

Here’s my version of Rum & Ginger Ale

Squeeze juice of one lime into a 1 Qt pitcher Add Sailor Jerry’s or a good dark Caribbean Rum (Cruzan, Appleton’s, etc.  Pyrat is too good for this drink!)
Dash or two of Angostura bitters (this makes the drink—don’t even attempt it without!)
Fill pitcher 1/2 way with ginger ale, stir allowing bubbles to mix and infuse the drink.  This is essential to a good drink!
Fill pitcher with remaining ginger ale Serve over ice; garnish with either a lime slice or a bing cherry (as shown) if they are in season.

Block Island: Andiamo!

Having heard about Block Island numerous times, I was prepared to love it, but nothing prepared me for the magic!

Getting There

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Our 2010 trip from Philadelphia to Block Island, down Long Island Sound through Hell Gate to New York City and back home was my first time offshore. We left Philadelphia July 3^rd and motor-sailed down the Delaware River and Bay rounding Cape May lighthouse entering the ocean the evening of July 4^th.

That evening as the waves rolled and the last blue-violet light of day clung to the horizon, I looked up at the sky and began to see stars emerge. There were so many they looked like fireworks standing still. They glowed and shone in twinkling rhythm, the vast blue sky steady behind them.  As darkness fell over the ocean, I could barely make out the lights of land. Then fireworks flashed like brake lights in traffic. They flashed up and down the Jersey coast in all the seaside towns where people went to celebrate Independence Day. The vastness of that night, my first night offshore cannot be captured.

By evening of the second day, we had Montauk in sight and shortly after, Mohegan bluffs on the south shore of Block Island.

Arriving at anchorage

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Coming into Salt Pond, the Coast Guard Station on the right stood watch as the sun set.  Looking for a place to anchor, I was astounded by the number of boats anchored. We motored past row after row finally finding a place to set down the hook. It was late--we were happy to sleep.

 

To Do

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It was late morning when we woke.  Around noon we took a water taxi up to The Oar for a lunch of gin and tonics and seafood. There we met a man who began describing the place where he’d recently bought his sailboat and we realized he was describing our home marina!  We had that small-world coincidence feeling that told us we were in the right place at the right time.

We began to wander the two miles into town, stopping to take pictures and pick up a few supplies. We found Block Island Depot, a grocery with some choice provisions. Looking for propane tanks, we stopped next at Island Hardware store. Then we worked our way into town finally reaching Sachem Pond.

 

Only on Block Island

The next morning, I awoke to a voice far off calling out. As it neared I heard An-di-AHHMMM-OOOOO, An-di-ahhmm-o! It was Aldo’s Bakery boat motoring up to those who hailed him either on the VHF or from the cockpit. As the boat approached our cockpit, we saw a spread of danish, muffins, breads, coffee and juices. I pointed to peach muffins which were carefully handed up to us with coffee.  We also stocked up on bread:  Challah and Italian.

It was time to go, but with plenty more to do in Block Island we have good reason to return.

Favorite Dock Bars

It’s getting near the end of the season here in the Northeast, but as they say, it’s 5:00 somewhere.  Check out these favorite dock bars either by land or by sea.  Remember to enjoy in moderation though so you can safely get to an anchorage or home.

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79th Street Boat Basin Café

By far my favorite of all.  If you have the chance, stay at the 79th Street Boat Basin and walk up to the restaurant.  It’s tough getting into the basin (you need at least a half tide’s worth of water) and they don’t take reservations, but it’s well worth the feeling of staying there.  If you have a dinghy, you can pick up a mooring ball and tie up at the marina.  There’s nothing calm about the water here—it is New York Harbor—so don’t expect a gentle night.
The café is laid back and totally unpretentious: plastic blue checked table cloths on plastic tables.  This belies the coolness of the place.  The vaulted ceilings inside give it an old world feel and the lights give it an ambience only outdone by the view of the Hudson River and the boats in the marina. This is a great place to have a bite to eat and a few margaritas.  It’s an even better place to meet friends.  Hands-down the best way to arrive in New York City that I know!

Curtin's Wharf Restaurant

Curtin's, located in nearby Burlington, NJ, is the easiest place to get to from Philadelphia, whether sailing or driving.  Open from Memorial Day to Labor Day, they have a very laid back atmosphere and music at night.  We’ve taken several group sails up the river and stopped here. This is a good place to get a spot on the dock and settle in for a night of fun—it’s smart to take a dinghy though in case the dock is full.  This place is packed on nice weekends.  Mariners seeking ice will find it in the ship’s store located a few hundred feet from the front of the restaurant.

Red Eye's Dock Bar and The Jetty

These are two separate dock bars on either side of the Kent Narrows drawbridge.  You may decide to stop at both if you are awaiting a bridge opening.  At The Jetty, you can order crabs and sit at an outdoor table for the Maryland feeling.  I much prefer to sit at Red Eye’s outside bar for the Caribbean feeling—but only during the week when they aren’t having the bikini contest and every red neck on the Eastern Shore shows up on their Harley to partake in the action.

Stan's Idle Hour

Note the segue…here it is every red neck in Southwest Florida and even wannabe red necks donning mullet caps (baseball caps with built in hair pieces) for the occasion to watch Stan do the Buzzard’s Lope.  Everyone should experience Stan’s at least once, but don’t say I didn’t warn you!

Check back for more dock bar suggestions!

Making the most of summer

Making the most of summer

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The best laid plans

Last week signs of fall began making their debut in Philadelphia: sunrise a few minutes later, sunset a bit earlier, longer shadows, women trying on boots, and Eagles shirts on passersby.  Two beautiful days at the end of the work week promised to be followed by at least one perfect summer day on Saturday.  We planned to take full advantage of it by planning our weekend sailing trip: a sail down river with Saturday afternoon’s tide and then anchor, barbeque (see Galley) and enjoy a full moon, making the most of our favorite season before it ends.

Friday evening we had cocktails on the patio and enjoyed the sunset and the nearly full moon coming up over the river while we tested out the new camera.  Saturday morning, I awoke to a beautiful sky and ignored the niggling “red sky in the morning” warning.  After a run and getting a few chores out of the way, we prepared to leave the marina in the early afternoon.  Suddenly black clouds rolled in.  We ignored the sky’s warning again and thought maybe it will blow over as quickly as it blew in.  Once out, the rain was hard to ignore, but we rationalized a bad day sailing is still better than sitting indoors.

Up the Schuylkill:  Exploring Philadelphia’s other river

As the rain got heavier, we decided to head home for the night.  On the way we took the opportunity to explore the Schuylkill River.  This has held a fascination for me—to see how the river connects from the Schuylkill river trail to where the mouth meets the Delaware.  Normally we would never take several hours to get somewhere we can walk to in 20 minutes, but we wanted to add a little adventure to Saturday’s disappointing weather.  Imagining ourselves as explorers entering the unchartered interior didn’t work for long as we saw smoke stacks, oil refineries, and eventually the city skyline.  But it was a cool view of Philadelphia and the natives seemed friendly!

Deep Water

Our weekend ended with a deluge and an inside movie day.  We chose Deep Water which Peter told me was the story about the 1968 Sunday Times Golden Globe Race, the first single-handed, round-the-world, non-stop sailboat race.  Not knowing Donald Crowhurst’s fate before watching made it much more engaging.  I felt the anxiety that Donald’s wife expressed because I can imagine Peter being out there alone.  The danger the men faced and the compelling call of the sea for them were haunting.  The wisdom of both Clare Crowhurst and Bernard Moitessier’s wife were highlights for me.  These women somehow held it together while their husbands faced unfathomable odds--they are the professional sea wives!

While the weekend didn’t turn out as we planned, we felt lucky to be tucked in safely as we waited out the storm and we’ll hope for next weekend to be those great summer days we need before the end.