Sunday, June 24, 2012

THE STORM


That Sunday afternoon found us sailing up the New Jersey coast to Block Island. As afternoon turned into evening, I took my watch at the helm and about an hour into my watch, the rain began. Just a soft rain, but I threw all the cockpit cushions down below and ducked out of the rain.  Perched next to the computer with the AIS-assisted plot charter, I was listening for alarms, popping my head up in the companionway every 15 or 20 minutes to look out, and trying to stay awake.


Peter took over his watch sometime around four am and unlike the previous night there were no emergencies—no boat flooding with water, no bilge and auto-pilot switches accidentally bumped off. No incidents to report whatsoever.

A few hours later when I woke up, it was light out and it was still raining. I looked out at Peter. He was having fun. He had on his yellow rain jacket, his old one from West-Marine with the rip in the shoulder showing the navy blue lining, yellow hood pulled up to his steel-rimmed square glasses, cinched under his beard.  He was wet, but smiling. I stood on the companionway steps to look out and saw how windy it was. The wind was blowing the tops of the waves off! It looked like the waves were raining on themselves. I struggled to remember the Beaufort scale and where lopped-off waves fell on that scale. I kept pointing to everything like the flag flap-flapping and snapping in the breeze.  At sea, a storm of any degree always instills awe and I was amazed and a little scared of the power of the wind and waves.

With the flag blowing to the port side of the boat, I knew the wind was coming from the east as we close-reached on a starboard tack to Block Island. We were feeling pressed for time—we wanted to be in Block well before sunset to be able to see to navigate the opening and also to anchor. Peter always says it’s no good going into a place at night—it’s part practical know-how, part superstition on his part, but I’ve learned to trust his instincts. With friends awaiting us, we knew if we didn’t get in there by nightfall, we might not get in until the next morning and we’d be missing out on fun. Although we didn’t have cell phone service out there, we guessed Mike and Andy were probably already in Block Island and Liz was due to arrive by train that evening. We were still five or six hours away if everything went to schedule.

With our time schedule dictating the course north east, and the wind coming from the east, and the swell pressing in to shore from the southeast, the angle of the waves was making the ride uncomfortable.

Peter recounts his watch saying that as we closed in on Long Island the breeze was building.  The closer to land we got, the rougher it was because it shoals up and the seas stack up, making for steeper waves.  The wind getting bigger and bigger and bigger. It was not a dramatic sky at that point—the clouds were even showing signs of breaking up over toward the East and we were hopeful that it would clear up before long.
Gradually, the sky got greyer and greyer. It didn’t feel like a big system (to Peter!), but the breeze was building. As we closed in, 60 miles down Long Island, 15 or 20 miles off shore, Peter, ever the quiet, stoic captain, did not share what he later said he was thinking: “Fuck, this is big.”

The wind was blowing hard from the east. Peter shouted over the wind, “Which way you think that’s blowing?” pointing to the mass of black clouds. I shouted back with a laugh, “I don’t know! I was just thinking the same thing. The wind is blowing…that way,” I motioned to the flapping flag, “…it should be blowing it away from us right?” But within minutes, we had the answer—it was coming fast towards us and we knew we were in for a bit of an uncomfortable ride. We later admitted that we were both thinking, “Oh shit that’s coming right at us.”